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Writer's pictureLakwatserong Hampaslupa

Marinduque. The Heart of the Philippines.

Known as "The Heart of the Philippines" for its shape and geographical location, the province of Marinduque is an island province in the Philippines located in Southwestern Tagalog Region (Mimaropa), lies between Tayabas Bay to the north and Sibuyan Sea to the south, west of the Bondoc Peninsula of Quezon province, east of Mindoro Island, and north of the island province of Romblon.

(CTTO: Goggle Maps)


The first inhabitants of Marinduque were Malay natives. They established trade relation with the Chinese as early as the Sung Dynasty. In the Spanish accounts, the people called the island Malandik (or Malindig) because that was the name of the volcano on the island. Its culture and customs are part of the tightly woven tapestry of Philippine culture. About 97 percent of the household population in Marinduque classified themselves as Tagalog. The remaining three percent were either Boholano, Pangalatao, Bisaya, Bicolnon, Ilocano, Cebuano, Ilonggo, or belonged to other ethnic groups.


The province is home to one of the oldest religious festivals in the country for almost 200 years, the Moriones celebrated annually every Holy Week. The term "Moriones" came from the word Morion which means masks.

The main event of the festival is the re-enactment of the story of a Roman soldier named Longinus.


The Bucketlist.

There were many notable things to consider visiting Marinduque during this 30th Lockdown Rides:

  • loop the circumferential road with extreme bends and awesome view decks

  • reconnect ourselves with the historical sights

  • visit and pray in the majestic churches in the province

  • have fun in one of the best beaches in the Philippines

  • step on the once considered the Luzon Datum (geodetic center), and

  • meet again our beloved Ninang, Dr. Jacky Rivas in her beautiful garden resort


1st Day: Angeles City to Boac, Marinduque


The Rides to the Port of Dalahican.

We left home early in the morning to Lucena City, via NLEX, Stage-3 Skyway, SLEX, and exit in Ibaan, Star Toll Way in Batangas - of at least 254km at about 5 hrs.

This newly built and now iconic landmark, Bagong Lucena Welcome Circle in Brgy. Isabang, Lucena City will never be missed. From here, only 17km or 24mins of rides via the bypass road (not passing the city proper) to the port of Dalahican.


The Getway Port to Marinduque.

We arrived in Dalahican Port in Talao-Talao, Lucena City, via Quezon Eco-Tourism Diversion Talao-Talao Port Road just in time for the much expected assessment of clearances and coordination permits before the roro departs.

After a year under extreme lockdown, it was evident that the known busy port was seem like abandoned.

Our motorcycle was loaded first, and securely tucked in on the side of the boat.

Only essential travels of basic supplies and goods are seen and loaded in the boat.

The passenger's bunkers in the upper deck were empty.

And no local nor foreign travelers were permitted to enter the island.

We roamed around the roro to feel the breeze of salty air, and check for some more in the boat.

We had mixed emotions seeing this worst condition, considering the loses for local tourism that once flourished and helped small to medium-scale traders and the people of Marinduque.

When the boat started to slowly drift away from the port, I was able to relax myself with my favorite beer available in the canteen area.


Arriving at the Heart of the Philippines.

Passing Agpisan, Atta, and Hidalgo Islands, the "getway" Port of Balanacan in Mogpog, Marinduque is in the Northwestern part of the main island of Marinduque.

We were very thankful and full of excitement reaching this part of the country under extreme lockdown. Truly, after all the communication to the provincial authorities and our brothers and sisters in the province, we were able to accomplish the next to impossible feat.

Only a few passengers and truck drivers embark on the port and directed to immediately undergo testing result verifications, as evidence of very strict protocol that the provincial health and safety board implemented during this hard times.

Towering high on the right side of the port, the Our Lady of Balanacan statue welcomes everyone which symbolizes the extreme faith of the local people in the island.

Surprisingly, a Moriones statue is also hard to miss just outside the port's gate, leading to the Mogpog-Balanacan Port Road.

After about 9km of rides from the port, we were so happy to finally reach Boac, a 1st class municipality and capital of the province of Marinduque, Philippines. It is the most populous town in Marinduque with a population of 57,283 people.


The 1st Church Visited in Marinduque.

Our getaways and lockdown rides always often filled with visiting and praying to a local churches. Not only that it will give us the rejuvenation to continue, thanking God for keeping us safe is always in our heart. It also gives us the immediate feeling on how the locals in the area started thriving - as churches often are the center of any communities in the Philippines.

The first cross was brought to the island in 1579, and the Immaculate Conception Cathedral Parish was founded by a Franciscan missionary, Fray Estevan Ortiz, after a year in 1580, here in the town center of Boac, Marinduque.

Oral tradition says, once an apparition of Mary with outstretched hands drove away the Moro pirates when the town's people were being attacked, and took refuge within the church's walls. Inside the church, the altar is astonishing, and the walls are huge.

Declared a Philippine Important Cultural Property (ICP) in 2018 by the national museum of the country, the beautiful garden outside the church was full of flowers and trees.


The Best Place to Stay in Marinduque.

The Eastpoint Hotel by the Sea is undoubtedly the best place to stay in Marinduque. Located in the coastal road in Boac, it has lot's of flowers and fruit-bearing trees all over. It was very safe there with 24-hours service, available wifi in public areas, wide and gated parking space secured with guard dogs, private beach access, and pet friendly. Inside, it has a pavilion, a canteen with videoke, play area, training room, kubos for lovers, and best of all, the hotel has 25 rooms at very cheap rates.

Arriving at the huge property after about 21km in just under an hour of rides, the entire place was surprisingly beautiful, calm, and beyond our expectations.

We were warmly greeted to relax ourselves in a massage sofa in the lobby of the main building.

Served with a plate of crunchy tacos specially prepared for us.

Surrounded by flowers and trees, and over-looking the beach just outside of the gate, a fully functional pavilion is excellent for family games, office outings, seminars, orientations, and even meetings.

The enticing Amoingon Beach is just a few meters away outside of the gated perimeter, for added safety of the guests.

Ninang Jacky, surprisingly prepared for us a mouth-watering dish for dinner - veggies with huge mantis shrimp.

We were able to drink a few bottles of beers in the canteen inside the resort, to winddown the very exciting 1st day journey.


2nd Day: The Marinduque Loop.


The 2nd day was the big day. We were greeted by Ninang Jacky, her best friend and co-trainer, and 3 of her adorable German shepherd guard dogs.

The plan is to cover the entire Marinduque Circumferential Road in counter-clockwise loop. We were so anxious to start the Loop that breakfast was taken for granted and probably be along the way.


Marinduque Airport.

Situated just in the main road in Barangay Masiga in the town of Gasan, near the border with the provincial capital, Boac, the Marinduque Airport is a Class 2 principal (minor domestic) airport with a 1,534-meter (5,033 ft) long, concrete-paved runway. It's the only airport in the island, and is capable of supporting turboprop aircraft like the ATR 72 and the Bombardier Dash 8l operated by several airlines, such as the Zest Airways.


The Town next to Boac.

Gasan is a 3rd class municipality in the province of Marinduque, with a population of 36,197 people. It was very quiet there when we pass, going to the next municipality of Buenavista.


St. Joseph the Worker Parish Church.

This grandiose church of St. Joseph the Worker Parish in Gasan was built in 1609, and seated on top of a hill with the panoramic view of the town and overlooking the vast blue ocean towards the east side of Mindoro island.

With the beautiful garden outside and the amazing stairways leading to the entrance door, the church interior is unbelievable if not marvelous. The ceiling has intricate fan carvings, statues of angels and saints masterfully carved in marbles, and the overall feeling inside is very relaxing.

In the garden outside, there were young bikers happily greeted us - so friendly locals that was equally amazed how we got there (in their island) in the middle of the very strict pandemic.


Marinduque Hot Spring Resort.

About 28km from our starting point in Boac, there's a hot spring within the 3rd municipality of Buenavista - and for just 50 pesos, you can enjoy submerging yourself in the warm water naturally flowing from a spring in the mountain.


Tigwi Viewdeck.

The 4th municipality after Boac, Gasan, and Buenavista, has a mountainous roads with exciting bends and twesties leading to the view deck, within the municipality of Torrijos.

It was unexpected that the Tigwi View Deck suddenly pop up after the bends - it was so amazing there.

The beautiful scenery was worth every minute of the stop there.

The overlooking view of the greenery from afar was natures way of reassuring that there were more beautiful things to experience if nature is respected and well preserved.


Poctoy White Beach.

After 2hrs of rides (of about 60km), a white beach that rivals the most beautiful beaches in the entire Philippines is located in Torrijos.

Situated in the east side of the main island facing the northernmost part of Quezon Province, the Poctoy White Beach was indeed impressive.

The pinkish sand with the crystal clear bluish water is very similar to that in Puka Beach in Boracay, Patar Beach, in Bolinao, Pangasinan, and Alona Beach, in Panglao, Bohol.

The wide and stretching long beach head was so pristine, and well managed.

We were greeted and warmly received by Ms. Recca Palomares, and Ms. Elizabeth Palmero, of the Torrijos Local Tourism office - thank you po..!


Battle of Pulang Lupa.

About 6km going back to the main circumferential road and up to the very steep and sigzag road leading to the top of a mountain in Torrijos, was the place where a bloody encounter took place between the Filipinos and American soldiers.

The view facing the north-eastern part of the island overlooking the Salumangui Island from afar was so amazing.

The Battle of Pulang Lupa was an engagement fought on September 13, 1900, during the Philippine–American War, between the forces of Colonel Maximo Abad and Devereux Shields, in which Abad's men surrounded and overwhelmingly defeated the American forces.

In honor of the bravery of about +300 regular Filipino soldiers and bolomen that sent shock waves through the American high command in that September of 1900, a beautifully sculpted monument with all the names of those heroes who gallantly fought there was curved in the marble markers to never forget their sacrifices.

Despite the steep climb, the sheer heat of the sun, and the rough roads few meters before the monument, the breathtaking view above the monument brought much relief.


Holy Cross Parish Church.

Covering almost two-thirds of the Marinduque Circumferential Road in counter-clockwise loop, and 84km from Eastpoint Hotel in Boac, after passing Gasan, Buenavista, and Torrijos, we reach the 1st class municipality of Sta. Cruz.

The Holy Cross Parish in Sta. Cruz, Marinduque, was built by Fray Esteban Ortiz and the Franciscan Friars in 1609, the same priest who built the Immaculate Conception Cathedral, in Boac. It has an impressive 2-meter thick walls, majestic bell tower, old paintings especially on the ceiling, and the architectural details will surely grab anyone's attention to great disbelief.

Perhaps the oldest church in Marinduque, the left side of the church has an old house that (according to some local there) was a museum of the churches' long history. There were some locals there in the old house, so we opted to not approach anyone very near to keep them safe during the pandemic.

It was at this point that we were very thankful reaching this far in Marinduque during the pandemic period - lighting a candle for our prayer in silence, ended our short visit.


St. Isidore Parish Church.

Located in the town of Mataas na Bayan ng Mogpog, there is a modern-looking church in Quezon Street that is called, St. Isidore Parish. We arrived there under the sheering heat of the sun after about 120km from Eastpoint Hotel. We were so exhausted riding about 25km of bends and twesties from the Holy Cross Parish Church in Sta. Cruz.

The interior of the church was plain and simple, and less clutter to those that needs more than the extravagance of being faithful. A short prayer and rehydrating ourselves gave us the needed push to the last few places to visit, and complete the Marinduque Loop.


The Luzon Datum of 1911.

Station Balanacan is located in the Northernmost part of the island - and about 37km from the town of Mogpog. It was known to many vlogs that the trail leading to the Barangay Hinanggayon, and up to the top, was very rough. Only experienced climbers reached the top. Nowadays, the newly built road leading to the edge of the stairway made it possible for people to see the wonderful view above.

Seeing the stairway for the first time, we were very excited - but when the time comes to go up, it was very steep. Although the wind that's bouncing the trees along the trail helps a lot, do not forget to bring water with you. There were also Stations of the Cross in every stages, up to the top which you can rest for a few minutes.

On top, the Station Balancan has a surprisingly wonderful view of several islands in the northeastern and northwestern side of the main island.

Being the primary geodetic reference of all surveys in the Philippines, it has historical significance and importance recognized in the surveying and mapping community, until the 1990's.

The overlooking view towards the side of the Port of Balanacan, in the northeastern part of the main island, called the Balanacan Cove, was so stunning.

We were so happy and thankful reaching this place. Only some explorers ever consider visiting the Luzon Datum due to its location, and its insignificance to mainstream tourist attraction that's commonly beaches and etc.

Between the National Historical Marker and the statue of The Virgin Mary, the "rock marker" seats in the spot where the National Mapping and Resource Information Authority (NAMRIA), the central mapping agency of the Philippines, in 1911.


Our Lady of Peace and Good Voyage Parish.

Going down from the Station Balanacan, this church was just 7.5km along the way back.

Established in 1976 by Jose T. Sanchez, the Archbishop of Lucena, as the independent church from San Isidro Labrador Parish, the interior of the Our Lady of Peace and Good Voyage Parish is warm and calm.


Marinduque Loop Completed.

Covering 189km of about 10hrs of rides, we were safely back in Eastpoint Hotel by the Sea, and completed our much awaited loop in the island of Marinduque. The bends and twesties were very similar to Mindoro, and there were no major road issues nor hazards. Marinduque Circumferential Road is excellent to loop for a day, passing the six (6) municipalities: Boac, Gasan, Buenavista, Torrijos, Sta. Cruz, and Mogpog.


3rd Day: The Journey Back Home.


The flora and fauna all around the Eastpoint Hotel by the Sea was evident of Ninang Jacky's peacefulness in living in her beautiful resort. Truly, this place is the best place to stay in the island of Marinduque - take that from me.

We were served with our breakfast of steamed rice, corned beef, egg, and a couple of spam slices.

We were so thankful to visit her that our Marinduque Loop was so complete with her presence and inspiration.


Back in Balanacan Port.

After about half of an hour rides to the north of the island, we're back in Balanacan Port.

Same as our journey to the island, the passenger were so few, and the entry to the island was still limited to the truckers that brought goods and supplies to the island.

We said goodbye to the Our Lady of Balanacan, to intercede for the safety of our journey back to the Dalahican Port, and on to Angeles City, Pampanga.

A few minutes later and my Kymco Xciting S 400i was safely loaded on the roro that's a bit smaller than the one that brought us here in the island 3 days ago.

While waiting for the loading of cars, jeeps, and trucks on the boat, we were able to roam around, speak to the captain, and relax ourselves.


Safely Landed in Dalahican Port.

After a couple of hours traveling at a distance of 26.5 nautical miles from port to port, we were safely back at Dalahican Port, in Lucena City.

The joy in unloading your motorcycle out from the roro and then proceeding with the rides is so thrilling - riders can hop in from island to islands nowadays (but not during this pandemic).


The Expressway Back Home.

A 2hrs rides from Dalahican Port at about 92km via Ibaan, the Petron Lipa Star Toll was our last stop over to hydrate and relax a bit, before riding all the way back to Angeles City, via SLEX, Skyway Stage 3, and NLEX.


Touchdown and Back in Angeles City.

The Holy Rosary Parish in Angeles City is the center of faith for the Angelenos, and it was very exhausting after 170km of rides via Star Toll Expressway, SLEX, Stage-3 Skyway, and NLEX. It was here that we thank God for the opportunity and safety given to us in accomplishing the Marinduque Loop.

Arriving at home, our beautiful only daughter took care of the debris in the 3 days of grueling rides.


Covering a grand total of 812km plus the 53 nautical miles roro ride back-and-forth, this 30th Lockdown Rides "Marinduque Loop" is indeed one of the best rides that we had so far.

Once we accept our limits, we go beyond them.

Having experienced the island for the very fist time, the entire journey was so unbelievable and discovering how wonderful Marinduque island is, the visit there was worth all our time, efforts, and resources.


If you happen to consider visiting Marinduque, please contact our Ninang, Dr. Jacky Rivas and stay in her beautiful Eastpoint Hotel by the Sea resort.


We appreciate the efforts and kindness of our beloved brothers and sisters in APO Marinduque (ΑΦΩ), to brother Joven Lilles, to brother Rino Labay, Sis Eden Virtucio, Sis Gigi Quitania, to the health and safety Officers of the Office of the Governor, to Hon. Presbitero J. Velasco Jr., to Sir Randy Ayala, and the kind people we met along the way: riders and bikers we ask for directions, people taking care of the spot that we visited, the crew and captains of the roro, health and safety officers that evaluated our clearances, and every one in Marinduque.


Byahe lang..!


2021 April 9~11, Marinduque Province



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