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Writer's pictureLakwatserong Hampaslupa

Mt. Mayon. The Volcano of Love and Death.

The Legend of Mount Mayon.

The world's most perfect volcanic cone for the symmetry of its shape.

The love story started between Magay'on (Maganda), the only daughter of Makusog (Malakas), the chief of the Rawis people (the ruling tribal family in Ibalon) and Dawani (Bahaghari), who died shortly after giving birth to her. Magay'on was so beautiful that men from different places went to her just to get a glimpse of her beauty, fell in love with Panganoron, a prince from a rival war tribe. One of her suitors was Patuga, a warrior and the chief of Iraga.

In one of the skirmishes and in order to settle the dispute of thier love triangle, Panganoron and Patuga battle each other that resulted Panganoron fatally wounding Pagtuga. Upon Panganoron's victory, Magay'on ran to embrace her lover. As Magay'on ran towards Panganoron, a poisoned arrow struck Magay'on at her back, killing her in the arms of Panganoron. As Pangaronon was kneeling over the dying Magay'on, Pagtuga's soldier stabbed him.

After the skirmish, Makusog decided to bury Magay'on and Pangaronon together.

Years passed and people noticed that the land where the lovers were buried started to rise higher and higher. The mountain which grew is as beautiful as Daragang Mayon and was named by Makusog in memory of her daughter - now known as Mayon Volcano.


The Lockdown Rides.

As a personal challenge and continue to travel (and ride) despite the pandemic without provoking the authorities, we ride and call it Lockdown Rides.

There were days of preparations, verifications, and securing everything that all checkpoints would require - to successfully let us pass safety and without drama nor disappointments. This lockdown rides had been one of the best and most grueling in all of the lockdown rides that we successfully did so far.

Outside the most comfortable place the we knew, our home, we left for the rides just after the sun broke out in a very cloudy day of December.


The 16th Lockdown Rides to Lagazpi City.

After days of preparations and to successfully ride the +600km combination of fast stretch, zigzag, and passing heavily populated towns and cities from Angeles City to Legazpi City in Albay, we secured PNP travel pass, RHU health clearances, and made important arrangements with some of our known friends in the Bicolandia.

Cold breezing air was all around passing NLEX, EDSA (41 days short of Stage 3 Skyway opening), SLEX, and StarToll Expressway, we pass the infamous Batangas Racing Circuit entrance. It's enticing to have a short glimpse but we were in a hurry to cover more distance in as little time as possible - and at that point, we barely covered about 1/3 of the way to Legazpi City in Albay.

After +70km of wet rides for a little more than an hour, we reached the Bitukang Manok (Quezon National Forest Park) - the old zigzag road in Pagbilao, Quezon going to the Bicolandia. You will be greeted by locals there, luscious greeneries, and monkeys all over the trees. At this point, the feeling was already so fulfilling - realizing not all riders from Central Luzon have gone at this point, in this condition, and during the strict lockdown period.

Riding +14km more and we were at Atimonan in Quezon under brutal heavy rains.

Here, our hearts were pounding hard between the thoughts of going back or pushing forward - yet, we're just there to have some nice quick meal without the thoughts of giving up. Explorers eat whatever available food so quickly to favor for some precious time - tourist (on the other hand) spend more time to savor and enjoy the moment; we don't have much time, and we need to get moving.

Reaching the Nuestra Señora De La Purisima Concepcion in Albay is like touching the doors of heaven for us. For more than 5 hours of rides from Atimonan, Quezon, passing the zigzags of Del Gallego, and the highspeed bypass roads of Naga and Iriga, at roughly about 300km of highspeed and precision riding while chatting in our bluetooth helmet intercoms, we were like taxing at the airport to our great relief.

After 8km of more roads at in the dark, we reached Chowking in Pacific Mall in Bitano to meet up with a friend, and for some hot soup to ease the cold weather - and at this point, we were shivering for many hours after the +580km total rides under mostly heavy rains. My mind was clear but my body was almost giving up - we've gone too far beyond what the normal distance (300km) of what Philippine Loopers' would normally cover in a day.

We met a good friend who happens to be always at the other side of me, and with the opposing team in almost all airsoft competition in Luzon that I compete with. Chua (we called him by his surname) is one of the well known airsoft personalities in the Bicolandia.

The final 1km rides to Hotel Liatris in Lapu Lapu Street in legazpi Port District in Legazpi City was perhaps the most assuring with a long time airsoft friend, Enrique Chua leading us on his scooter.

Felt like bruised and battered after the intense whole day of rides, heavy rains, and unfamiliar zigzags and stretch, the balcony of Hotel Liatris that is overlooking the busy street in Legazpi City gave us the much needed reassurance that we are safe, after a hot shower. And at this point, our total distance covered was exactly 657.3km, from our home in Angeles City, Pampanga to here in the hotel in Legaspi City.

Still dead tired after a few hours of sleep, the hotel's complimentary SpamSiLog breakfast in bed was more than enough for us to start the day perfectly.

Going outside the balcony again, we were stunned to see from afar the beauty of Mt. Mayon beckoning us to come to her as a grace of our efforts. They said,

if Mt. Mayon showed her tip clearly to you, it is a very prosperous day - if it covers slightly itself with clouds, it beckons you to come near and it see.

Simbahan ng Daraga.

First thing's first though, the top priority (as always in our travels and lockdown rides) is to visit the church to give thanks and gratitude to God the Father in Heaven for the wonderful journey in our lives every time - and this time, the church is super special. My wife shared to me a story that she and her parents went to attend mass together in that same church at a very young age. So, that solitude was very special to her, after decades of longing to visit and pray there again.

The Nuestra Senora de la Porteria (Our Lady of the Gate Parish) in the municipality of Daraga, Albay is considered as one of the most beautiful churches in the Philippines. built by the Franciscans in 1772 under the jurisdiction of the Roman Catholic Diocese of Legazpi.

This church is a true sign of crowning glory when it comes to religious architecture as it was declared as a National treasure on October 29th, 2007. It features a blend of three design influences: Renaissance, Gothic and Mexican baroque. Its façade, carved out of volcanic stone, features four spiral columns with medallions bearing images of the four Evangelists.

Cagsawa found it as a temporary shelter as their church was buried under the volcanic debris during the last eruption in 1814. The bell resembles great churches in Bohol and in the Ilocandia. The painting is in the Northern Renaissance style and was completed most likely around 1630. The Virgin Mary is depicted without the infant Jesus.

We attended the Holy Mass celebrated by Rev. Fr. Uloy Lawengco, whom he sermoned about "humbly acknowledging our sins.. finding comfort in giving comfort.. with gratitude to find what life is all about".

Overlooking the sea in the east, Simbahan ng Daraga also has the stunning vantage point of the ever beautiful Mount Mayon from afar looking in the north. At this time, the clouds totally covered the tip which also translates to my me as saying, "have more time there, as it is holier a house of God, I'm just here waiting.." - so we had more time seeing the beautiful church from the outside as we took some snacks.


The Ruins of the Church of Cagsawa.

Recognized as one of the places to visit in the whole of Asia by the Internationale Tourismus-Börse Berlin, protected by the National Museum of the Philippines, and maintained by the LGU of Daraga, the ruins of Cagsawa Church is utterly magnificent.

The church was built by the Franciscans in 1587, burned down and destroyed by Dutch pirates in 1636, rebuilt again by Franciscan Fr. Francisco Blanco in 1724, and ultimately destroyed by the molten lava during the eruption of Mayon Volcano on February 1, 1814 - it is now the ruins as part of the Cagsawa Park.

The feeling of getting there after almost 600km of rides on 2-wheels in heavy rains was so fulfilling. Praying for the souls lost there more than 200 years ago was so meaningful. Taking crazy pictures and watching the majestic Mayon Volcano from afar towering above the sky at 2,463 meters above the sea level was so breathtaking.

We met there a guy named King, a tour guide and professional photographer practicing trick shots for tourists amazing memories.

A hefty 3 months old maxi-scooter, my Kymco Xciting S 400i was also under baptism of fire during this very demanding rides, and proved to be very reliable thus far.

Being one of the member of KYT Team Pampanga, we were surprised to meet the guys from KYT Team Iriga in their well-styled Yamaha Sniper 150's and KYT NFR helmets - happy to meet you guys..!


The Bewildering Trail to Green Lava.

It was too arrogant to expect that on that time of the pandemic where everything was put on stand still due to pandemic and a strong typhoon devastated the province, we are going to experience a trail ride going to the foot of Mount Mayon. It was raining and everything was so unsured so we had no expectations. When a man approached us and offered to ride a couple of quad ATV's to the foot of Mount Mayon called Green Lava, it was an opportunity never to miss - and so we took it.. yesss!

My wife is a well-experienced stick-shifter driver - but on quad ATV, that was totally new for both of us. The first few meters was a crazy "in pronto" test rides without the option to back out. Learning how to ride quad ATV was crazy to be very honest. The excitement in riding the quad ATV offroad totally overwhelmed our expectations up ahead - inching our way becomes the thrill of a lifetime.

We had crossed a stream that's unthinkable. The experience was so enormously unbelievable up to this date. It was pure fun and excitement that no amount of money can compare. If you happen to visit Albay, never miss it..!

Seeing Mount Mayon barely showing it's beauty to us from afar add more excitement to go further and further, and reach it closer.

After successfully crossing the stream to great disbelief, the mood shifted from wet to dry narrow uphill - and the quad ATV rides has now became serious (and dangerous). A slight mistake that would tumble the ATV upside down would really mean serious consequences.

Focusing with each bumps on the rocks and in steady course carefully rewarded us with the stunningly beautiful Green Lava at the foot of Mount Mayon.

It was amazingly beautiful there - a place that will put you great joy and disbelief..!

A small nipa hut and a comfort room build by Kuya Francisco in Green Lava for just a small amount of money. A very kind man in spite of the impact of the pandemic and the storm Ulysis that ravage his flowers, he was very pleased to welcome us, and excited to invite tourist to visit his astonishing place again.

The 360deg view in the Green Lava was so unbelievable. This photo was one of the closest that we can clearly see the tip of Mount Mayon in the backdraft, taken by our photographer and videographer Kuya Obet, and our guide and back-up driver Kuya Jay-R.

The cold wind blows constantly even under the sheer heat of the sun, as the weather and the rain was shifting back and forth.

Reaching Green Lava on ATV's really made this trip so unforgettable - it was an amazingly beautiful experience in Albay.

We had to go down slowly when the rain starts to pour down a bit. It was scary to think that we had to navigate through some serious obstacles back in heavy rain increases the danger.

And being tired to ride the ATV on her own as a great excuse, my wife wrapped her hands around me like high school sweethearts going down.. haha!

The moment she saw the cold gushing water in the stream, she immediately went back in riding the ATV with full of confidence and excitement.

It's so easy to make my wife happy - let her do what she likes the most - those are the things that challenges her, or any thing new - look at her face!

This trail was undoubtedly made available to maximize the fun of riding ATV's off road. It was too impossible to think riding it but it is possible with great focus and care.

Although it's not cheap to ride ATV's, the amount of excitement will give you back so much pleasure in return.

The last few meters still has so much fun to offer. Parking the ATV's back to where we started proved a great relief.

The experience was so enormously worthwhile - from riding the ATV's for the first time, crossing a stream with cold gushing water from the mountain, riding a narrow path full of rocks, reaching the top in Green Lava, and down to witnessing the magnificent works of God full of flowers, huge lava rocks, the close proximity of Mount Mayon, the cold blowing of mountain air, and in full 360 degrees view was so amazing..!


The 1st Colonial Grill.

Ask the locals in random for the best place to savor the authentic Bicolano dishes in Legazpi City and (I think) most of them will tell you about the 1st Colonial Grill in Rizal Street, Brgy. Sagpon, Old Albay, Legazpi City - about 10 minutes rides @ less than 5km distance from Cagsawa Park.

Spicy grilled mussels, pinangat, laing, and tinapa fried rice was the best combination.

And there is no better place to savor the taste of gabi leaves in coconut milk than in the Bicolandia - cooked in two very distinctive taste, "Pinangat" (using fresh gabi leaves), and "Laing" (using dried gabi leaves).

Overall, 1st Colonial Grill undoubtedly exceeded our expectations - the warm snug comfort, the cleanliness, the surprisingly great food that represents the province well, the lightings, and the privacy during this pandemic period - those are the tiny details that makes the huge difference for us.

As soon as the food settled in, we ride back to the hotel to rest for many hours as the next day early morning was another grueling +600km of rides back.


Our Ride Back Home.

After the super fast ang long stretch between Pamplona and Libmanan, somewhere in between the zigsag of Sipucot and Ragay, at about +150km and 3hrs of rides, we found a small eatery to regenerate heat, after soaking in wet from Hotel Liatris in Legazpi City.

The boiled beef knuckles soap (bulalo) with its distinctive aroma gave us the much needed heat and more strength to overcome the journey still up ahead of us - salamat Ate Luz.

There is no way you let exhaustion in riding in wet conditions overcome you. A short stop for some coffee, power drinks, and a stick of cigarette has been a mandatory stop, somewhere in between Del Gallego and Tagkawayan.

Amidst the poor weather condition on the road, we were back in the same place 3 days ago, in Atimonan, Quezon. We were still about 300km away from home - and at that point, fatigue and exhaustion was obviously sinking in.

So we took more time to refresh both the body and the mind, while the will to push on increases bit by bit, minute by minute. This "Albay Rides" gave us lot's of experience, and the biggest confidence boost to take on long distance lockdown rides after it.

We hoped to have a surprise visit and meet my beloved Grand Chancellor in college, PLtCol. Dennis De Leon in Tiaong, Quezon but he too was out for schooling.

From Tiaong, Quezon, the day was starting to wind down.. the weather was not getting better.. the accuracy at speed was not reassuring to ride SLEX, EDSA, and NLEX in the pitch dark night in heavy rains, with dark colored lenses..; Fortunately, Jasmin Drive Inn in Tanuan, Batangas accommodated us - to rest, recharge and prepare for the remaining final +160km of highspeed expressway rides.

Early morning on the 4th day, we were in full charged and up for the final run, from Tanuan, Batangas to Angeles City, in moderate rains in SLEX to heavy downpour entering NLEX. Our breakfast was at Shell Balagtas NLEX Northbound, an easy 71km away from home if not for the rains.

And just about 9am, we reached the center of Angeles City's faith - the Holy Rosary Parish.

We were totally stunned to our great disbelief for this journey that we had accomplished - in 4 days of rides, covering a total of 1,300km, we were blessed with the best and most thrilling lockdown rides ever to date, unscratched, undeterred, and perhaps the best ever lockdown rides...!

We were very grateful not to forget the people we met and helped us, places that we were able to reached amidst the pandemic, and the journey that inspires even us and will never forget.

Thankful as always, and despite us being so drained and wasted, we decided to give Xcy, our Kymco Exciting S 400i a nicely deserving shower after proving its worth - did not flinch a bit, always performing, no drama at all, and stood with us through thick and thin in that journey.

Indeed, the famous volcano of "love and death" proved to be worthy of effort. Go there for the love of adventures and the rides. Loose your presence and composure there when riding and it's a serious matter.

Life is not about waiting for the storm to pass: it's about learning how to ride in the rain.

Byahe lang.. cheers!


2020 December 6~8, Legazpi, Albay.

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