Our year-end getaways must be a big blast. In 2018 we decided to do the unthinkable Ifugao~Mountain Province loop rides, alone on a scooter riding the Yamaha NMAX 155cc.
This journey brought as to Banaue, Batad, Bontoc, Sagada, Cervantes, Bessang Pass, Tagudin, resting at the beach in Urbiztondo, La Union, and back home to Angeles City.
Covering almost 800km to-and-from, this rides was one of the most enjoyable rides we've ever done on a 4-day getaways - about 22hrs of riding in the most dangerous zigzag roads in Ifugao and in the Mountain Province. (ctto: google.com/maps)
The inspiration for this loop ride is to visit Bangaan Rice Terraces, Batad Rice Terraces, Tappiya Falls, ride Mt. Polis, visit Bomod-Ok Falls and Pongas Falls in Sagada, ride Bessang Pass, and wind down in Baywatch, Urbiztondo, La Union.
Along the way, somewhere in Nueva Ecija, we met a fellow rider and his wife, Sir Pong and Mam Luz were also on their way to Mt. Province, very humble, and they too are well-travelled.
For many times passing this area, we use to stop at San Mig Food Hub, in San Jose City, Nueva Ecija. There were many food stores to eat "Lutong Bahay" dishes - I always eat there "pinapaitan kambing" (sour goat soup) and "lechon kawali" (crispy fried pork belly) with rice. It is also a good idea to refill gas, before you start the zigzag rides in San Fe mountain ranges. Although some of the roads are old, riding there is super awesome.
(ctto: https://goo.gl/maps/reakiZeQRZ61DDq19)
Reaching Santa Fe after just over an hour of flowing bends, it is best to rest for a while there - 1 stick of cigarette and a splash of cold water will be good enough before you proceed to the more exciting bends in Lamot.
Never push there beyond your riding limits, unless you are prepared to plunge deep or smack your face on the cemented mountain wall.
The rescue there would take a longer time than in the city - making simple slide a very serious case when you are in the mountains. A smooth flowing ride that is relaxing and is even more exciting, is the best pace there.
Having been riding together for more than 20yrs, reaching Lamot is still easy with just the right ride speed to appreciate the scenery - about 50~75kph will be enough. It is hot there and the smell of the "nganga" (betel nut with lime) will start to be all around.
Finally after riding along with some dare devil NMAX riders, we reach Banaue faster than expected. The breezing air was getting colder, and the feel of mountain province is starting to impress us.
As per the policeman whom I chat there, the crime rate is almost zero - the people there are so honest and very kind. Their lives are very simple down to the point that stealing or arguing with each other does not come into their minds. They are busy on their crops, chewing nganga, pastoring animals, wood carving, building their houses, or praying. Yes, people in mountain province are very religious.
Banaue Rice Terraces.
A 4th class municipality of 18 barangays with a population of 22 thousand people, Banaue is known for the UNESCO World Heritage sites: the Bangaan and Batad rice terraces.
Bangaan rice terraces is the widely known "Banaue Rice Terraces", just a few kilometers up, passing the town. Along the road you can choose the best vantage point based from your perspective in taking photos.
The Dianarra Viewdeck has the best spot for the mainstream tourist.
From there, it allows you to see the vastness of the curved mountains.
The Banaue Rice Terraces were chosen as one of the two green globe destinations of the country by the World Travel and Tour Council. According to a local, the scenery on the other side of the Bangaan rice terraces (from where we standing on the road) is even more awesome - but it will take us several hours of trekking which was not considered in our very tight itinerary.
The terraces which are believed by many to be more than 2,000 years old, is manifesting the sheer engineering skill and ingenuity of the sturdy "Ifugaos" - the local people in Banaue. They are irrigated by means of mountain streams and springs that have been tapping and channeling rain waters into canals that run downhill through the rice terraces.
They exceed the height of the world's tallest building if the vertical distance between the top and bottom rows are measured.
Batad Rice Terraces.
About 20km from Banaue rice terraces, Brgy. Batad is the location of the best rice terraces in entire mountain province.
We rented a safe parking space for our scooter - and the trekking to Batad Rice Terraces begins from here. You need a guide even though the trekking is just a few minutes because having no guide will lead to no where - like what happened to us.
The trekking is forgiving with a few stops to catch my breath. We where riding all day long, and we decided to stay in the highest place that's overlooking the rice terraces on it's rooftop. The best place to stay there is in Batad Countryside Inn. It was very cold there - rooms don't need to be airconditioned - it's already freezing outside.
Taking up Business Management, Nisha is the owner of Batad Countryside Inn, in Batad. They will for cook for you whatever is in the ref, just pay for it and it's cheap there.
We started the trekking through the Batad rice terraces early in the morning, to arrive early in Tappiya Falls, take more photos, and ride back to Banaue, to Bontok, and sleep in Sagada on that same day.
I felt very happy stepping in Batad rice terraces. It's a dream come true.
You can't go there and reach Tappiya Falls without a local guide. The narrow passage is actually part of the terraces itself, and the passage is like a maze - the wrong path leads you to dead end - which means returning from the area that you've been wrong.
The wall is about 12~15ft which is not possible to jump onto the mud.
There are stepping stones that only the locals knew since they were kids.
And the scenery in Batad rice terraces is so awesome.
According to our guide, Batad rice terraces is the most stable rice terraces in all of the mountain province. While others are made of compacted earth which often erodes, the Batad rice terraces were made by painstakingly stacking stones like a jigsaw puzzle.
Batad rice terraces is even older than that in Banaue, according to our guide.
The stone-walled rice terraces in Batad were built by means of early tools and methods in order to become very stable. It is known to resist earthquakes for thousands of years.
The trekking to Tappiya Falls through Batad rice terraces was never easy for me.
The Majestic Tappiya Falls.
Going down these stairs is endless - going up will triple the difficulty.
The locals were able to cement the narrow passage or else it is impossible for travelers to ever reach it.
Exhaustion is like killing me but I have no choice. I need to experience Tappiya Falls.
Seeing Tappiya Falls for the first time was all worth the seemingly endless trekking. The water was very colds, it's like freezing. The scenery around was equally awesome.
Perhaps this waterfall is the most awesome in all that I've ever reached - and the most difficult as well. It has a unique appeal than that of Mother Falls in Baler, Cambugahay Falls in Siquijor, or the Imugan Falls in Nueva Vizcaja. Maybe because of the difficulty level in reaching Tappiya Falls that add to it's awesomeness.
The trekking going up is very difficult. We didn't mind to take a shot because we have to focus, just to return on time.
The Rides to Sagada.
Immediately after taking our lunch in Batad Countryside Inn, we were rushing to hit the road and ride back to Banaue, to Bontoc, and on to Sagada. To reach Bontoc, you have to carefully navigate the curving road in Mount Polis. The clouds is all over because it's too high @ 1,895 meters ASL, and that mountain road is the boarder between Ifugao and Mountain Province. It was cold and windy while riding smoothly. Slide there and you will regret the rest of your life.
We reach Bontoc after more than 2 hours of 61km rides. It's already passed lunchtime but we chose to push to reach Sagada on empty stomach. Taking time in Bontoc will loose precious time in Sagada.
Sagada Rains.
From Sagada to Bontoc is only 32km of a little an hour ride. Sadly, the rain started to fall and it slows us down. We reach Sagada soaking wet. We stayed in Ganduyan Inn, just in front of the townhall. Amazingly, we were at the roof top again for the second time, overlooking the central town of Sagada.
Having not able to roam-around, we took our dinner at Masferre Country Inn and Restaurant, which serve a lot of usual Filipino dishes, and a cozy place to eat.
In the morning, we visited Our Lady of Mount Carmel church, just 1km away from the townhall. Just as always, we love to visit churches during getaways - to give thanks to the Lord for the opportunity of traveling safe.
The church is so big, beautiful, and very solemn to pray inside.
There are hundreds of rice terraces in Ifugao, in Sagada, and all the way to Cervantes.
We were running out of time so we just took some photos and leave because the rain was again starting to pour again.
The Treacherous Bessang Pass.
Instead of going to Baguio and spending the night there, we decided to experience the infamous zigzag roads of Bessang Pass via Tadian, and on to Tagudin. We were rushing though, to escape before dawn. There was plenty of time but we were not taking chances for possible troubles or slide in the unforgiving twist in turns in Bessang Pass.
The experience was not for the new riders. Loose your cool there and you will plunge down deep. No one was there except for some riders, cyclist, and vehicles every after 30mins. It's not the perfect place to have trouble with your motorcycle or vehicle.
The end of the road is in Tagudin, Ilocos Sur, exiting in Mc Arthur Highway. The best part there was the final 6km to Mc Arthur Highway - you can accelerate like you are in the Isles of Man TT race - you can unleash the brute power of the 155cc there - and my wife was screaming with joy at speed.
We still had 1 day to spend, and my wife wants to go to Vigan. I was very exhausted after the 119km rides of zigzag roads, almost 4hrs of intense rides. My mind tells me to not overdo things. So I decided to ride south down to the beach in Urbiztondo, La Union instead - about 46km away in less than an hour.
Baywatch - Urbiztondo, San Juan, La Union.
This is how the Yamaha NMAX 155cc had endured after the 3 days of rides. From this point, it's the remaining 193km at about 4hrs rides back to Angeles City.
Arriving at the CL Apartelle (I think has one of the tallest buildings in Urbiztondo), we were offered the last remaining room which happens to be on the rooftop again. It's the third consecutive nights that we stayed on the rooftop - from Batad to Sagada, and now here in La Union.
We still have the time to visit the beach in Urbiztondo although the sun was almost gone down. It was very rewarding to see my self safely surpass the Ifugao-Mountain Province zigzag roads.
My wife was very delightful in this journey - to me, it was unbelievable even at that point.
As I posted this photo in my FB page, "breakfast ko sa Sagada highlands.. dinner ko sa beach." It was a very unique feeling. I never thought that we can make it up to here, during this time.
We rewarded ourselves with a sumptuous dinner - steak prepared by Rustic Box Steak House in the BeachBum Food Park.
The steak was much better than that in John's kitchenet in Angeles City by dozen of times.
We enjoyed the night with live bands, beers, and fries - to call it a night.
Lunch at Victor's.
In the morning, it was time to head back home - the kids were waiting - but passing Tarlac City, the grilled "hito" (catfish) and "sisig" (grilled chopped pork head) in Victors Restaurant is hard to pass without stopping for lunch, and the final 50km gliding rides back home to Angeles City.
Back home.
Immediately after arriving in Angeles City, we went to the beautiful Sto. Rosario Parish Church - to give thanks to God for the safe and wonderful journey. This is the most beautiful church in Angeles City, and the center of Angeleño's strong faith and unwaivering love to God.
This loop rides took a lot of man-hours of planning and research. You cannot go there without a detailed itinerary. It was a year-ender getaway blast for us in 2018. I have proven that none is impossible with preparation, perseverance, and prayers. The heavy rains in Sagada was a bit dangerous and barred us from visiting the Bomod-Ok Falls and Pongas Falls - there's always the next time.
If you are a long distance rider (or wish to be one), and loves riding down to the teeth, the Ifugao-Mountain Province Loop is perfect for you; it will worth all the exhaustion that you will endure, and the experience is so rewarding and unforgettable.. promise..!
Byahe lang.. cheers!
2018 December 26~28, Ifugao and Mountain Province
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