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Writer's pictureLakwatserong Hampaslupa

Siquijor. Magical Island of Fire.

Siquijor is famous for its magic potions, shamans, witchcraft, sorcerers, and is known as the "magical island of fire" in the Philippines. In the north of Siquijor is Santander and Oslob, Cebu, to the west is Dumaguete City, Negros, northeast is Panglao, Bohol, and in the south, across the Bohol Sea, is Dapitan City, Zamboanga del Norte.

(ctto: www.google.com/maps)

The Spanish called it “Isla del Fuego” (Island of Fire) for the glow caused by numerous fireflies at night. In more recent times Siquijor has become popular among locals for folk healing. (ctto: www.nature.org)

This Siquijor getaways was to experience San Juan beach and grilled seafoods, the majestic Cambugahay falls, the surprisingly beautiful Salagdoong beach, looping clockwise the entire 80km Siquijor circumferential roads, and experience the people, food, and their culture - all in just 48 hours of very tight itineraries. (ctto: www.google.com/maps)


The Journey.

The Dumaguete City ferry terminal that is part of the Philippine Nautical Highway has a fastcraft to Siquijor Pier, or a roro going to Larena ferry terminal, also in Siquijor. The port was very clean, well-managed, and pretty much like in Batangas port. (ctto: www.google.com/maps)

All the seats in the fastcraft were already sold out when we arrived the port from Bais City, so we had to board the roro to Larena port just to reach Siquijor on that day - adding 10km more to our destination in San Juan beach and it's seafoods and night life.

MV Reina de Luna surprised us with its cozy airconditioned room, seats very similar to tourist buses, and a TV that played movies while in the journey - all for a reasonable +400/pax one way ticket. A cafeteria serves boiled eggs (the usual in sea travel), 3-1 coffee, sandwiches, and noodles, etc. for a very cheap price.

Outside the boat, it's so romantic with the breezing air that increases' the excitement while crossing the strait between Negros and Siquijor islands, for about a couple of hours.

Nearing the port in Larena, the scenery was starting to impress us, and the port's cleanliness will not go unnoticed - not even single plastic garbage floating in the waters.

This was a long awaited getaways after failing to visit when we visited Panglao and Bohol main islands due to lack of time - this getaways was a dream come true.


"Visayas Getaways" bucketlist shall definitely include a visit to the beautiful places in Siquijor.

A very kind old man shared to us while in the boat ride that it's cheaper to rent a scooter and roam around the island - that's exactly what our plan was. So, immediately upon embarking, we rented a scooter just outside Larena's port. There are two scooter rentals outside the port.

For 350 pesos per day, we rented this Honda Beat Fi 100cc with the best fuel economy of about 60Km/L - so gas worth 150 pesos would be more than enough to complete our Siquijor loop rides, on paper.


San Juan Beach.

The rides to San Juan beach from Larena port is about 18km on moderate speed. The road was clean and smooth asphalt and no pot holes from point to point. You just have to be careful for dogs or children suddenly cross the street. People there are relaxed, and slow pacing peaceful lives everywhere.

We opted to stay in a local homestay in San Juan. Staying in first class resort will make us spend 10 times of money, and it's not worth it for an overnight stay. Javil's homestay will surely do.

The lady owner was very accommodating and provided us a parking space inside the gate. Even if you leave your scooter outside, no one will bother it. People in this province are very honest, low profile, and well-behaved.

In just over a kilometer of smooth rides going to the north of San Juan beach were resto's and bars, full of foreigners and tourists.

Aloha's Grill and Restobar was perhaps the most packed with tourist and travelers enjoying every dish you can imagine, specially grilled seafoods.

The seafoods was not cheap and not too expensive either like in Alona beach in Panglao, Bohol.

BBQ's on stick, and almost every thing that grilling is best known for was available there.

The soothing smell of smoke in the grilling was unforgettable - get some beers while waiting to enjoy the moment.

Grilled tuna and squid with beers was our choice to enjoy the night.

We were on the beach side very much like in the old Boracay night life on the sands.

In the morning, the calmness of the beach just at the back of Javil's homestay was deafening. Maybe, all the people there was drunk last night.. hahaha

It was also low tide in the morning - so there's no swimming in the waters during the morning in San Juan - too bad.

The beach has white sands in the entire San Juan.

After a few minutes in the beach, we ride towards the north side of the circumferential road leading to Cambugahay falls, 22km in less than an hour cruise rides.


Cambugahay Falls.

San Isidro Labrador Parish Church in Lazi, Siquijor is a National Cultural Treasure declared by the National Museum of the Philippines, built by the Order of Augustinian Recollects in 1884. You will see this huge church and the convent across the road, on your way to Cambugahay falls. From here, we were just 2km of wide and winding roads to the falls' jump off point.

Cambugahay has three waterfalls each with its own unique beauty. A stairway made of stones filled up together, this leads to the lowest waterfalls.

I was stunned to see the waterfalls for the first time. The bluish water was awesome. The entire surroundings felt like we were on a virgin forest. There was no concrete structures, other than the bamboo structures to access the main body of water.

Some bamboo structures were made for sheltering from the heat of the sun.

The second waterfalls was a bit shallow and the most dramatic. When the water is high, there's a bamboo jumping pad on the deepest part for a water splash.

The third waterfalls was the most exciting, with a bamboo bridge that goes to the other side.

Visitors stayed there to enjoy the cool waters, clinging on the rocks, on the balsa, or use the rope to swing and fall joyfully to the waters.

My wife really enjoyed the cool waters in Cambugahay falls.

This photo was amazing for me. It captures the kid on air, just before releasing himself in the rope, teasing you for his P50 per jump excitement.

I was so impressed because it's the first time that I saw a three level waterfalls.

After a few hours enjoying our time in the waters, it's time to hit the road again to Salagdoong beach - about 18km away in under an hour of cruising rides.


Salagdoong Beach.


The expected very short rides to Salagdoong beach was prolonged by strong rains along the way. Arriving at the famous beach in Siquijor was a bit exhausting, if not for the flowers that greeted us.

There were some cottages to stay overnight - but we had a very tight schedule.

We took our late lunch with kare-kare, fish fillet, and cold beers (syempre!).

The place was expectedly full of foreigners and a few locals.

The beach was divided by the rock that has a "cliff diving" slide on to the waters.

It was so amazing there - a kind of place that you can go back many times and still enjoy the rest of the place.

Unfortunately, we have to keep moving towards the north of the island, and be back to Larena port to catch up with the boat.


The Loop Rides.


After several minutes of riding towards the northern part of the circumferential road, there was a beach so pristine and untouched along the way. I wonder, why they did not consider the beauty of this long white beach to be one of the best destinations.

Arriving at Larena port after 22km of fun rides, I had to return the rented scooter back. Our tickets was already coordinated in advance to secure our slot in the boat leaving soon.

Instead of boarding the MV Reina de Luna back to Dumaguete City, we are boarding the LCT Martin V to Liluan port in Santander, Cebu.

We were so impressed by the island of Siquijor, the people, the food, and the astonishing places that was truly amazing.

The boat ride to Liluan port, south of Cebu, was rough. The waves made the boat tilt about a meter side by side. It was a bit scary knowing it was already late in the afternoon when we arrived at the port.

In Larena port, you can list your name and they will assign you a secured seat and a bus number. As soon as we got out of Liluan port, buses are waiting, and immediately we board back to Cebu City.


Cebu City. The Regional Center of Central Visayas.

We arrived in Cebu City just before midnight. We stayed in Honey Hunt House for the evening, with cold redhorse beers in the room.

In the morning, Cebu City was starting to get busy.

The traffic in the city was enormous even at the early hour.

The owner of Honey Hunt House was surely a fan of PRRD - we took photos after a nice breakfast in the hotel.

Just below the building was the Oppa Cafe. The setting was surprisingly unique that it did not missed my attention.

There were some couches inside for students to comfortably xx together.

And students leave some notes to their friends and to the cafe.

The menu was not cheap and yet still affordable for your talented kids in college.

It was a very unique setting for a cafe that I never saw in Angeles City.

A few minutes later, Bro. Tom arrived to fetch us. It was a an amazing moment to seeing him again, after his reassignment from Region 3, now in Region 7, which covers the provinces of Bohol, Cebu, Negros Oriental, and Siquijor.

I requested my cousin and nephews to be there and meet us at AA's BBQs in Salinas Drive, Cebu City.

A few beers after the superb lunch was the finale of happiness meeting everyone after several years.

Then Bro. Tom accompanied to us to Heritage of Cebu Monument in the Parian Plaza, Cebu City.

The significant events of Cebu's rich history were sculptured by the award-winning master, Eduardo Castrillo.

Truth be told that I was (actually) born in Cebu, and visited the City several times, yet it was the first time I saw this beautiful masterpiece.

Magellan's Cross is perhaps the most visited landmark in Cebu City.

The strong religious beliefs of Cebuano's was manifested in this holy place of worship inside the Basilica complex.ng cross inside this dome.

The strong religious beliefs of Cebuano's was manifested in this holy place of worship inside the Basilica complex.

The Sto.Niño Pilgrim Center was huge and very beautiful inside the complex.

Inside the Basilica Minore del Santo Niño de Cebu was very calm and so peaceful. Just like in all of our getaways, either it begin or end with a visit to the church - to thank God for the opportunity to travel safely.

After a few hours, we were up and on our way back to Clark airport to catch up with the kids on new year's eve.


In all of our travels, I was surprised by the Locals. Siquijor is always misunderstood by myths, legends, and folktales. If you just know how to be polite enough, Siquijor is an island paradise for travelers and explorers - just learn how to blend, appreciative, stay low, and keep your cool - you will surely enjoy there.


Bizarre travel plans are dancing lessons from God.

Byahe lang.. cheers!

2019 December 29~30, Siquijor Island + Cebu City

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