(A story shared by Manung Ernesto, Manung Mariano, and our Kalinga Travel Experience)
During ancient times, warriors from other villages raided nearby villages for women, crops, and poultry. In order to protect the people in the village, their ancestors chose a place where there is only one way to get in and out of the village (a choke point), and Buscalan was like hanging in the east side of a mountain. In order to reach Buscalan, one has to go up and down an adjacent mountain, and is easily seen by their sentries, passing a waterfall and up again to the mountain where Buscalan is situated now. As a result, their warrior ancestors were able to raid other villages as reprisal without sacrificing the protection of their own families in the village. This was made Butbut tribe head hunters often successful in returning to the village with jaws of their enemies as holder of their "Gangsa" (the bronze gong they use as musical instruments) during their ritual dance.
Nowadays, no one is allowed to hike Buscalan without a local and certified guide. You will be found unwanted if you do hike without their knowledge or permission. Men are roaming around with Cherka or Sipan (a small and large blade), and as a place for warriors, anyone can be killed when found unsuited to their tradition (as sumpa or insult to the tribe).
Travelling by bus, van, and then jeep, we reached Sitio Mar-o, Brgy. Bugnay, Tinglayan, Kalinga in the early evening and very exhausted - it's already dark and the weather is very cold. Manung Ernesto's wife Joseline (a master teacher 1 in a local school there) prepared white beans, fish in boiled water, and rice for the dinner. I took some pictures of the moon from a vantage point, then i was able to see in person a live weed (hehe) where it is legal for locals to keep for medicinal purposes. Then we sleep in a newly built room. Manung Ernesto's place is perhaps, the best place to stay as base camp to Buscalan during the morning hike.
The Hike to Buscalan.
Early in the morning, we ride motorcycles in as far as the roads would end, then started the trek up and down to the east side of the mountain.
The first few meters of the hike were all sticky mud that was unforgiving.
Then started the trek up and down to the east side mountain, up to the mountain where Buscalan is located, passing a waterfall.
We reached Butbut Tribe after 2 hours of hike where we directly went to Apo Whang-od's house, after giving away candies and chocolates to kids in the tribe.
Meeting the Living Legend of the Cordilleras.
She was sitting in a dark place in her dirty kitchen - she offered us a locally brewed rice coffee - I took the chance to have her with me in a photo - the very first photo of her on that morning of December 28th - I was chilling in excitement upon seeing her, and kiss her hand as a gesture of full respect. We gave her some canned goods and etc. as "pasalubong".
We distributed candies (chocolates and jelly-ace) to kids of Butbut Tribe - and upon seeing me doing it, a young man (who happens to be a tribe guard) gave me his "Cherka" a small knife they forged in the tribe's upper portion of the village.
We met Manung Simeon "Jun" Dilat, a very young elder and a lead-guide there who organized the people and guides - he is a person of authority - everyone follow him and his orders, and decides who shall be tattooed and who shall not. Another famous guide their is Manung Chester, who is also influential as Manung Ernesto Banganan (our most protective guide). Due to many people in line for Apo Whang-od's tattoo, some decided to ask for Grace and Ilyang instead - both are qualified Kalinga tattoo artist trained by Apo Whang-od herself - but their works are being checked, re-checked, and priced by Apo until 10 full years in practice. I insisted to have Apo's Whang-Od tattoo and waited for several hours, until after her lunch meal, I had my chance. I was invited for lunch by Manung Simeon in his antic house - a nilagang Bangus was served to us, no utensils, sitting on the floor that was built for more than three hundred years by her wife's ancestors (it was a very antic house that requires permission or invites to enter).
Apo Whang-Od does not tattoo alphabet letters. She doesn't know how to read other than "Alibata". So I ask Grace to draw the design that is allowed for me, and insisted the letter's I, C, E, M, A, and N at the middle.
Apo Whang-Od even asked for explanation what and why design was like that - Grace explained that I do trekking and scuba diving - so Apo Whang-Od permits and started the preparation.
Apo Whang-Od even asked for explanation what and why design was like that - Grace explained that I do trekking and scuba diving - so Apo Whang-Od permits and started the preparation.
The needle is actually the thorn of Pomelo lemon inserted in the small bamboo stick, then punched by another slightly bigger bamboo held in the other hand. The ink was taken from the bottom of a used pan mixed in a bowl that looks like a thousand year's old.
The tattoo-ing process was not really painful and having been in front of a woman who tattoo-ed real Kalinga Warriors in the past, it's disgraceful to show her a flick of the pain.
My tattoo was finished after more than an hour. She was very meticulous over her art that she re-do mine three (3) times on the same parts (ouch!). My skin was battered heavily and scores of bloods flowing in her every pierce on my skin - the battering was severe, but the pain gave me strength. We decided not to sleep in Butbut Tribe for safety reasons. A small laceration or anything traumatic there, and the medical facility will never be available. So we stayed in Mar-o (a sitio of Bugnay) instead - just to secure your safety. Although we made a faster descent from Butbut Tribe, and back to sitio Mar-o just before dark, the difficulties were the same. My legs were cramping, and the thin air makes breathing even harder. Fortunately, Ate Jocelyn's sister is one of the only 2 registered nurses in the municipality of Tinglayan. I requested her to give me a shot of anti-tetanus toxoid for assurance. We stayed again overnight at Manung Ernesto's place.
The journey to Buscalan and up to Butbut Tribe was so exhausting yet so thrilling. You will not have the luxury of stops just to eat. We were eating while traveling, if not sleeping. Time is so important to reach Sitio Mar-o before dark. Amids of all the difficulties, it all worth the efforts and expenses - seeing for yourself the living legend that is considered to be a National Artist and a treasure of the Cordillera Region, it was really a great pleasure to held in my hands Apo Whang-Od Oggay.
As I said goodbye to the "living treasure of the Cordilleras", I kissed her head and hand again.. she's still strong, happy, and very cocky - we miss her since that day...
The Last Mambabatok.
Being the only remaining genuine warrior tattoo artist in all of the Cordillera Region, nothing will replace Apo Whang-Od Oggay when she's already gone. Grace and Ilyang did not ever tattoo-ed warriors since there is no more warriors. Thus, the title as Mambabatok as a dedicated skin artist in the tribe for warriors will no longer be applied to them, and forever be lost in time.
(I took this photo after hours of sitting beside her and waiting for the sun to shine on her face - perhaps this was the best photo I took during my time in photography..)
Upon reaching home after several hours of travel, the "Cherka" given to me by a Sipan and the legendary tattoos in our skins, were so valuable.
I'd say, Apo Whang-Od Oggay will never live forever but her legacy is immortal.
Byahe lang.. cheers!
2015 December 26~28, Butbut Tribe, Kalinga
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